Transitioning Design Activism

When thinking about the industry that I chose to make a living off of, I think about what first drew me to the apparel industry. For me, fashion is wearable art that allows me to express my creativity and personality. To some this is a fickle industry but once you take the time to learn about how much depth there is to the industry you learn how many needs are met because of this industry. For example, clothing meets the personal needs of protection, freedom and identity. For utilitarian purposes, one chooses whether they are going to wear a long sleeve, tank or shirt based on the weather and then next comes the freedom to express your identity with the personal and unique details of the particular item chosen by the wearer.

I have chosen to base my design concept on young women transitioning from college to the work-world. I feel this is a large target market that can often times be over looked. Specifically, it is hard for me to find clothing that is still unique but mature at the same time. It is hard to find transitional pieces that can be worn to work and interviews but also to outings with friends. As a result I feel that I have two separate wardrobes based on whether I am going to job interviews or hanging out with my friends which means I can be categorized as an over-consumer. With overconsumption, there is a negative relation to the sustainability and environmental degradation makes it more difficult to replace materials and resources. According to our reading, Fuad-Luke believe that in order to make it a positive relation between our industry and the environment we must stress how important it is in not only creating positive solutions but practicing them as well.

Design activism combines the concepts of designing new products and satisfying basic needs of the consumers. This relates to targeting to a large group of consumers but allowing them to express individuality along the way. My design concept is creating a company that is solely interested in meeting the needs and wants of young women going through the transition from college to the working world. This company will hold a standard for designing and manufacturing apparel in the most sustainable ways. The company will stress and educate the consumers on the recycled materials, eco-friendly dyes they use and how they are limiting their environmental footprint. There will be a representative that will meet with the individual customer and take her measurements. After the measurements are taken, the rep will sit down with her and go through a look book of unique designs from shirts, skirts, pants and jackets that can be customized with different fabrics. For a specific example, a button down shirt can have one type of print of the body and the cuffs could be in a different pattern or color along with the little details of which buttons are used. While going through the book, the rep will discuss the importance of being environmentally conscience and how to be aware of over-consuming but still remain a unique individual. Once the garments are manufactured the rep will deliver the garments and work with the client to create different looks with the pieces that can transition from work to friends. I feel that this design company combines the concept of design activism and Fraud-Luke’s idea of halfway products because there is an element of personal designs being combined with a sustainable outlook.

This course has enlightened me on how sustainability goes beyond just identifying the problems but taking a proactive mental mode towards creating solutions and actually putting them into practice. I plan to use the knowledge that I have gained and putting them into practice in my future purchasing decisions. I will think more about whether it is necessary for me to buy the product and the possible multiple outcomes and repercussions of my actions as a consumer. I would like to learn about how to empower others, beyond myself, to be conscious of their buying decisions and how to make sustainability a realistic life choice, not just an unattainable idea.

from apparel to interior

When thinking about the cradle-to-cradle concept, it requires one to contemplate the term and go beyond the surface when deciphering how to apply the concepts to apparel and interior design. When contemplating the biological and or technical metabolisms, I feel that it makes more sense to apply technical metabolism to our industry. To me, technical metabolism is a more in-depth form of recycling through a closed-loop system. Since the apparel and interior industry combine multiple textiles and fibers together to create a durable and desirable product, it would be hard to produce a product that could be considered completely biodegradable.  The technical metabolism system helped to inspire my design concept along with past and this week’s readings and videos.

In a past reading, Cradle to Cradle, McDonough and Braungart discussed the importance of shifting our mental modes from cradle-to-grave towards cradle-to-cradle. Meaning, it is in our power to be able to think of new ideas for old products instead of just throwing them out. We have to take a proactive approach to recreating the apparel and interior products we already posses in order to become more environmentally sustainable. This concept blends well with, Textile Futures, in which, Quinn, applies a concept called resurfacing. This concept basically values finding a new use for a product that would normally be discarded. With a few enhancements to the old product, you can create a completely new product that is beautiful and helps limit your impact on the environment. Transitioning from Quinn’s concept of resurfacing, I found most interesting from reading C2CAD is the importance of combining resources and industry involvement of working together to exchange valuable ideas on how to maintain sustainability. Like I mentioned in my last post, I think it should be an industry standard to help consumers understand the full potential of the garment or product they are purchasing and all the uses and the value of recreating the product over and over again. The combination of the past readings and videos have led me to think of a specific design concept that I think will enhance the concept of cradle-to-cradle by combining the apparel and interior industries.

When thinking about applying the readings and videos to a design concept, I thought about what products I have an excess of. That’s when I looked at my wall by my door and saw the plethora of scarves I have decoratively hung. Technically I only need one for utilitarian purposes but I find that I can not get enough of the flowy and beautifully crafted materials.  I then began to think of how to recreate these products into something that could transition them from apparel to interiors and I found inspiration from Anthropologie and thought of layering the long pieces of fabrics and creating curtains. By taking curtains that are already hung in my room, I sewed and glued the scarves to add life to old curtains and therefore changing the entire look of my room. From then I added some unique touches by applying paint I had in my craft box and sewing old buttons that I have collect from garments that provide extras incase one were to fall off. The concept applies all the concepts from technical metabolism to resurfacing to C2CAD and combining apparel and interior products.

Picture: http://casadiseno.files.wordpress.com/2010/07/anthropologie-flamenco-shower-curtain.jpg - Anthropologie Shower Curtain

A New Question

When developing my solution to an environmental problem, I first had to break down the two principles of the cradle-to-cradle concept and apply each to the apparel industry and weigh the pros and cons of each. The Rhoener Textiles video really helped to give some visual insight and valuable information on biological and technical metabolisms which are each a valuable piece to the cradle-to-cradle puzzle. Biological metabolism embodies the concept that any product created can be naturally broken down and reconsumed.  Specifically, this is considered “products of consumption.” This is a great concept but I think in terms of the apparel industry, technical metabolism can be more easily applied. This is a closed cycle that doesn’t contaminate the environment any further and is considered “products of service.”

In the apparel industry, we value all the unique designs and products that set everyone apart. In our reading Food Equals Waste, the author states that “we recognize and understand the value of feeling special, even unique.” Our mental modes of looking at products/clothing needs to shift from the cradle-to-grave and to “reincarnation.” What this means is that as consumers and manufacturers, we need to look beyond the obvious use of the product and think more in-depth about how the product can be manipulated into something new instead of discarded once the product is worn or considered old. This is where my solution stems from.

So what’s the problem?

I feel that many consumers possess the cradle-to-grave mindset which has a negative impact on our environment. The easy route is to either throw the garment out or donate it once the consumer believes that the product is no longer of use to him or her. By throwing out apparel we are filling our landfills and hurting our environment.

Where do we go from here?

My solution to shift the cradle-to-grave mindset is to develop a system that helps consumers develop the cradle-to-cradle mindset and look beyond the obvious. This requires more effort from the manufacturers and companies involved in the apparel industry but can drastically improve the sustainability of the industry. I think that companies should implement a web-based blog or website that gives step by step information on how to “reincarnate” specific items that they sell. For example, Free People sells beautiful and unique garments that really grasp the importance of a consumer feeling special and unique. Free People can take the next step in just selling it to providing a link on their website to a new page that shows a consumer how to take a shirt and either enhance it (example: how to create fringed edges) or make it into a completely different product (example: headband and matching bracelets).

The last paragraph of our reading really had an impact on me and my old way of thinking. It states,

“Insanity has been defined as doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different outcome. Negligence is described as doing the same thing over and over even though you know it is dangerous, stupid or wrong. Now that we now, it’s time for a change.”

It is time to make a change in our lifestyle and mental modes. I believe we are all capable of stepping up to the plate and making a difference.



Inspiration from the Morpho Butterfly

Biomimicry is a hard concept to grasp. Kate Fletcher best describes the concept in chapter 6 Local and Light by breaking down the concept into three parts. The three basic approaches of biomimicry can be summed as 1. using nature as a role model 2. using nature as a measuring device and 3. using nature as a mentor. All in all if we were to go back to the very basics and the way nature works, we stand a better chance at solving a lot of the environmental problems we have caused. My concept this week is getting the designers and manufacturers to shift their mental modes to reflect nature in their designs in hopes of creating a more sustainable future.  

In my previous post I developed a concept that would help motivate people to recycle using two IE concepts developed by Janine Benyus. I took two more concepts to help inspire my decision to address the issue on the designer’s level. One concept that elaborates and inspires my idea of motivating designers is minimizing the use of materials. If manufacturers and designers were to take on this burden and really think about what materials are used in the design process, we would be able to reduce our environmental footprint. Bradley Quinn elaborates on this IE concept in chapter 5 Sustainability when he goes into depth about morphotex. This revolutionary colorful textile is created without any dyes or pigments. This textile is modeled after the South American morpho butterfly that actually contains no pigments in their wings. The color in the textile is created by weaving polyester and nylon and changes colors depending on the way the light is reflected through the fabric. We could be one step closer to a sustainable future if more designers were to implement this into their design concept.

Another IE concept that influences my idea of getting designers to shift their mental modes is the idea to gather and use energy efficiently. The design process demands a lot of long hours and consequently, a lot of energy is consumed. Designers could take on the initiative of finding a way to power the manufacturing plants and design studios through wind or hydropower. This could cut down the use of our depleting resources (gas, oil and coal) and allow for a more sustainable future.

Every Action Bears a Consequence

Every action bears a consequence.

               This concept statement really applies to the idea of the industry continuum. The article, Industrial Ecology, really summarizes this reoccurring theme and states “every industrial activity is linked to thousands of other transactions and activities and to their environmental impacts.” Every decision our apparel, textile or interior industry manufacturers make, will eventually affect everyone and everything in our environment. Being involved in the industry, we must learn how to answer and fulfill customers needs while trying to remain as sustainable as possible. This idea of maintaining a balance with the two is called industrial ecology (IE).

               One of the major problems I feel needs to be addressed is motivating consumers to take the initiative to actually recycle materials. How do we get others to step up to the challenge of practicing recycling and make it a part of their daily lives? One concept that I think will benefit the consumers, manufacturers and the environment is through a rewards program.

               In the chapter, How Will We Conduct Business?, Janine Benyus discusses 10 key principles that will help us achieve a more sustainable future. The two concepts that pertain to my idea of rewarding consumers are 1. use waste as a resource and 2. optimize rather than maximize.

               The principle of using waste as a resource is the primary inspiration for my sustainable idea. Benyus asks the question, “what happens when a product leaves the manufacturer’s gates and passes to the consumer and finally to the trash can?” The answer I have come up with is proposing a “middle man” type of service. I think that apparel and interior stores should practice a rewards program of taking back used products or shopping bags and offering either a discount or store credit. This will address the issue of motivating consumers to recycle and help cut down on products being thrown out because they are no longer relevant in the person’s life.  

               The second principle that influenced my concept is the idea of optimizing rather than maximizing. This principle will help the manufacturers and the industry emphasize the importance of quality and not quantity. Let’s say, before a store implements this rewards concept, a consumer purchases the same shirt in multiple different colors and patterns because they think they will wear them all. Well most of the time when this happens, most people will wear one of the colors regularly and therefore they have increased their waste when they go to throw out their shirts when they are no longer trendy. By offering this system, the consumer can return the shirts to the store and the store can then turn around and recycle them to the manufacturer and then the manufacturer can take the necessary steps to reuse the materials in new products.

               I feel these principles and reward concept will help cut down on product waste and help shift our mental modes towards a more sustainable future.

Creating a Sustainable Future

From what I have learned these past few weeks, there has to be a significant change in the mental mode of the way we as consumers picture our future. Our mental mode shapes the way we envision and see our world, whether we are optimistic or pessimistic about the future sustainability of our world. Personally, there are three characteristic that are important in being more conscious about the sustainability of our actions and thinking optimistically and they include educating ourselves, becoming more habitual on recycling and creating foresight for the future.

Education

The past blog posts I have stressed how important it is to be educated on every aspect of our consumption decisions. I truly believe that the more educated a person is, that more informed decision can be made which results in a better decision making process. Education can take us in the right direction towards a sustainable future because if we know the latest information about a particular fiber or how it is produced, we can make decisions on whether our environment will benefit from the consumption of this product or not. The article, Limiting Consumption discusses the importance of knowing how our ecosystems are affected by our actions and how consumption goes full circle. One has to believe that educating themselves on the products and resources used and the time and effort it takes to become fully educated is worth it.

Recycling

Another huge habit that one must create in order to become more individually sustainable is the habit of recycling. I feel that our generation has been able to shed some light on the importance of recycling and has even taken it one step further into making it “the cool thing to do.” The reason I believe this has become a “cool thing” is the recyclable shopping bags. The bags have been made in multiple different colors and sizes and are very trendy right now. I have seen these bags anywhere from the grocery store, to the public libraries all the way to campus and class. As opposed to filling our landfill with recyclable goods, if we take the extra effort necessary to recycle, we can ultimately help the apparel and interior industries by providing materials that can be used to create products. This will create an interconnected cycle, linking all of us to a sustainable future.

Foresight

Another characteristic that I believe we should be conscious of is foresight for our future. The article, Thinking Ahead: The Value of Future Consciousness discusses this very concept. We all poses the ability to imagine our future and so we should shift our mental mode from a pessimistic stand point, “it doesn’t matter what I do because I am just one person,” to an optimistic point of view, “I want to create the best possible future for myself.” The article specifically states that we need to “challenge existing habitual beliefs about [our] ability to influence the future.” We have the ability to change our world and consumers mental modes to create a sustainable world by consciously thinking about our education, recycling habits and having an optimistic foresight.

The article, Visioneering: an essential framework in sustainability science,  Joon Kim states “sustainability remains an elusive concept and its nature seems unclear for the most part.” I agree with this quote 100%. The topic of a sustainable future is very hard to grasp and most wonder if we can ever become a truly sustainable culture. But I believe that if we focus on education, recycling and the foresight of a sustainable future we can become a truly sustainable culture.

Miracle Fibers: Hemp, Bamboo, Cotton

Hemp

According to the article, Hemp: Historic Fiber Remains Controversial, hemp has been a durable material that has been common in apparel and interior products since 28^th Century B.C. This textile has grown increasingly popular in the U.S. and consumers have become more aware of its versatility. Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani and Ralph Lauren have incorporated this fiber in their designs which enhances the fibers popularity on a designer level as well. Along with apparel popularity, farmers have also turned to growing the popular crop instead of less popular ones like tobacco. Farmers can benefit from planting hemp because water quality can be improved because the plant doesn’t need pesticides in order to grow which also decreases harmful run off. Along with the growing popularity, there has been some controversy with the fiber as well. One of the concerns is that this fiber is also grown and harvested for the illegal drug, marijuana. Because of this controversy, it is legal to import hemp fibers and processed seeds but illegal for farmers to actually grow the plant. This poses a hardship on some farmers that are interested in growing the plant in order to make a substantially large profit by selling it to apparel and interior manufacturers. By having to import the fibers products we are spending money in other countries that are capable of growing the plant instead of stimulating our own economy. I believe that growing and farming the popular and durable fiber should be legal in the U.S. based off the several benefits this crop provides to economy and environment.

Bamboozled

“With the tremendous expansion of green claims in today’s marketplace, it is particularly important for the FTC to address deceptive environmental claims, so that consumers can trust that the products they buy have the environmentally friendly attributes they want,” ‐ David Vladeck, Director of FTC’s Bureau of Consumer Protection

This statement can be found on the back of the “Guidance from Consumer Advocates” brochure. This brochure and statement address a growing concern that manufacturers are mislabeling their products as bamboo when they are actually made from rayon. The controversy of mislabeling this product is detrimental to the consumer. The consumer believes that they are buying products made from this soft, natural product when in actuality they are purchasing a product that is manufactured and not grown. Rayon is made using toxic chemicals which is not environmentally sustainable, where as bamboo is found and grown in the natural environment. Federal Regulations holds the manufacturers responsible to correctly labeling the product as “rayon made from bamboo” so the consumer knows that the product is not actually made from hemp. Advertising is where the consumer is misled and where the controversy starts. The product is promoted as being made from bamboo but the fine print tells a different story. Consumers need to be aware of the labeling and not so concerned with the advertising and promotion of bamboo products.

Cotton

In a previous blog, I discussed the controversy of cotton and whether it is a sustainable crop. There are many arguments surrounding this fiber and whether it is as environmentally friendly as we, the consumers, like to believe. The article, Controvery Boiling; Gm Cotton Against Organic, states that there is no simple answer to this question. In order for the crop to be environmentally friendly, the farmer must grow the crop to the 100% organic standards. This standards includes using just rainfall as a water source and not having to plow the fields after every harvest. When deciding to grow the crop, the farmer has to solely rely on the environment and weather conditions. If it is not grown in an organic standard, the farmer can manipulate the field to the perfect conditions that cotton requires. This harms the environment because of the substantial water wasted and chemicals used. I would like to believe that we can shift to supporting only farmers and manufacturers that use 100% organic standards but this fiber is in such high demand that I don’t think it will every reach the point of being sustainable.

Miracle Fibers

When considering these controversial fibers in the design and merchandising aspects, I think it is very important to be highly educated on each fiber and where the products are coming from. We must find out if these fibers are 100% organic. And as buyers we should ask, are the products correctly labeled and should we support fibers grown outside the country or look for manufacturers that use fibers grown locally? As consumers, we must ask ourselves the same questions. We need to read the fine print in the labels and verify if a company produces products that are made from fibers that are 100% organic. If we take the time to understand the answers to these questions, we will take one more step to becoming a more sustainable industry.